The fashion show of the Calvin Klein Collection Spring/Summer 2014 was held in the gargantuan Spring Studio complex.
Costa’s minimalist take has consistently been a defining aspect of his shows and this was no exception. The clothes stood away from the body: tanks and jackets in floating organza hung over oversized painter’s pants with deep deep cuffs. He is a master of the fold and, in the crevices of pleats there was a flash of coral – but only a flash because of course this is Calvin Klein so off-white and black dominated.
Raw edges and fringing accompanied much of the tailoring while the finale saw fringing turn to feathers on evening dresses. The transparent mood lingers, too: flesh was glimpsed through slashed fabrics and peeped from between layers.
Wonderful marbled snakeskin patchwork dresses displayed more of Costa’s mastery: he has always been deeply interested in fabrication and the unique cloths in this collection were one of its dominant features.