FENDI – Some of the world’s most famous models – including Cara and Georgia Jagger – were disguised with roughly chopped black wigs, their uniformity making the clothes all the more distracting. Chiffon layered tunic dresses, shorts and vests in varying shades of blue and grey were protected by heavy dark brown leather coats, before the chiffon froze to woven PVC that glittered in the lights. Geometric mosaics of shaved red or yellow fur smothered chiffon coats and shift dresses with generous folding at the hip – then one strapless neon peach chiffon dress stole the show for a moment before a disco ball mini dress took over the limelight. It was fun – the technical treatments of every carefully conceived fabric displaying Lagerfeld’s love of modernity.
“I love to use in a funny way words from the visual web communication world,” he said in his show notes. “Everything is ‘hyperlinked’: clothes, bags, shoes, accessories. It is a kind of ‘inline style’.”
Silvia Fendi, granddaughter of founders Adele and Edoardo, was named creative director of accessories at the house in 1992 and today offered large sculpted shoppers in bright orange and white and clutches that tucked under model arms like precious, fur-pompommed Pekingeses.
The fourth generation of the family also contributed today – Sivia’s daughter Delfina Delettrez Fendi added fur and crystal adornments to ears, fingers and wrists. It was a family party that was good to be part of.
Of all Karl Lagerfeld‘s jobs – Chanel, his own label, his high street collaborations, his fizzy drink partnerships – Fendi has come to represent his most serious over the years. Formal, occasionally futuristic, fur-orientated: it’s for women with watertight fashion credentials to go with their ball-breaking bank accounts. But for spring/summer 2014 he has lightened her up and flooded her with colour – from the first degrade organza tiered dress that fell from dark pink to nothing as the fabric representation of our invitation, we felt a buzz in the air as if we were about to see something new, which is pretty impressive for a house that has been trading since 1925 (with Lagerfeld at the helm since 1965).