Prada FW 2013 – MIUCCIA PRADA is in the habit of making us think: who’s that woman? She makes us ask questions about the clothes. That’s the way she hooks us in, and this evening did so to an ever so slightly silent menacing backdrop of cats and shadows, birds and drapes projected onto the back of the catwalk for an fall/winter 2013-14 collection that was a reprise of her previous brilliant ideas but updated to equally covetable effect. There was a broader view of clothes this time round, where last season it had been so distinct in Japanese referencing. Broader, more accessible even – in the way that her menswear collection too had gone back to basics for the new season, less conceptual but provocative all the same.
Once again she set a high bar and all the Prada elements – the belted waists and the oversized bags, the seriously high platforms and overcoats – were there. Look back over the years and you could pinpoint which collections she revisited – only this time there were new elements in there too: specifically a play with skirt lengths and panel inserts which added a new charm and subverted sophistication to hemlines. These additions were sometimes covered in sequins or sometimes merely mismatched in length – but Prada mismatched.
Waists were further belted on skirt suits or on great coats whose main focus was an oversized and upturned cuff. It was austere and glamorous just as Prada does – those felted wools and oversized coats with mink to go with them – and modern with it.
There was a sense of the undone throughout – the bedraggled wet hair and the half-done-up cardigans that sat beneath off-the-shoulder dresses, one in pretty pink tying at the back across the shoulder blades. And that again begged us to ask the question: who is this woman?
There was a purity in her vision and a strength – perhaps a reaction to Italy’s unsettled political climate right now. Regardless, each season there is huge anticipation and expectation on Prada and once again this season she created a whole new world, combined with the fond and the familiar, and we happily stepped on inside.
Text provided by Jessica Bumpus